As the United States gears up for the 2024 presidential election, the spectacle of voting stretches far beyond the simple act of casting a ballot. Over the years, American voters have used various forms of clothing and accessories to express their political affiliations, beliefs, and even humor as they exercise their democratic right. Let’s look back and explore the evolution of political merchandise in U.S. history.

The Inauguration of the Campaign Button

One of the oldest ways to visually express one’s political pride was (and still is) the campaign button. During the first presidential election, many of George Washington’s supporters chose to voice their support for him by sporting copper buttons. These buttons featured Washington’s initials in the center, encircled by the words “Long Live the President.” This design cheekily repurposed the language of the English monarchy (“Long Live the King”).

In 1860, Abraham Lincoln was the first presidential candidate to have his face featured on a campaign button. The button also featured the face of his first vice-presidential running mate, Hannibal Hamlin, on the other side.

The 19^th Amendment and Women’s Fashion

For women especially, fashion choices were historically constrictive, with any changes in style indicating a woman’s character, class, occupation, marital status, and even her position on social and political issues.

The women’s suffrage movement began in the United States in the mid-1800s. The first suffragists thought that women’s public clothing was far too restrictive and even damaging to their health and best interests. Tightly laced corsets and steel hoop skirts were eventually traded for the looser-fitting dresses of the 1910’s.

The first suffragist parade was held in Washington D.C. the day before President Wilson’s inauguration in March 1913. Participants displayed their solidarity by dressing in a uniform color – white. As most women owned a white dress, it served as the perfect uniform while also being symbolic of the purity and moral superiority that women argued they would bring to government and politics. Women also accessorized their white dresses with “Votes for Women” sashes — one of the first instances of adding political messages to apparel. On June 4 1919, Congress passed the 19th Amendment, granting all American women the right to vote.

The Unofficial Hats of Political Conventions

As the 20th century progressed, campaign paraphernalia became more common. Along with buttons, voters now proudly sported boater (or skimmer) hats. Today, these flat brim straw hats are often associated with barbershop quartets and school uniforms. But in the 19^th and early 20^th centuries, they were the peak of summer fashion. Soon, boater hats became the unofficial hat of political conventions that were typically held during warmer months. These hats featured silk ribbons printed with the candidate of choice’s name tied around the hatband. They served as both a form of advertisement and a means of rallying supporters at the polls. In the 1980s, Styrofoam and plastic boater hats replaced the classic straw.

Counterculture of the 60s and 70s

Starting in the 1960s, cultural and political changes resulted in a revolution in the fashion industry. The growth of silk-screen printing made custom clothing more accessible, and thus the political slogan t-shirt took off. T-shirts emblazoned with political messages and symbols became popular among activists and voters alike. This era saw an explosion of creative expression, with slogans, caricatures, and artwork reflecting the social and political climate of the time.

The Nixon campaign even produced paper dresses, a popular trend in women’s fashion, to appeal to young voters, who were often referred to as “Nixonettes.”

Present Day Novelty and Couture Apparel

In recent decades, voting attire has become more relaxed but also very diverse. We have seen an increase in novelty apparel, with voters sporting humorous or ironic t-shirts, hats, and even costumes to the polls.

The Obama campaign in 2008 played on the “O” of Obama with the “O” in “hope,” a major campaign theme. Street artist and legendary graphic designer Shepard Fairey created an instantly recognizable portrait of then Senator Barack Obama in 2008 that played on the “hope” theme and was an effective and even iconic image that was ubiquitous on that election cycle. 

In 2015, we witnessed the launch of one of the most iconic pieces of modern campaign merch: Trump’s red “Make America Great Again” cap. While simple in design, the hats (blood red with bold, very white type) soon became synonymous with Trump’s campaign and supporters.

2020 saw some of the first high-end designer political merch with Joe Biden’s “Believe in Better” collection featuring designs from Tory Burch, Jason Wu, Thom Brown, and Vera Wang. These designs exemplify how many high-profile people are becoming increasingly comfortable sharing and expressing their political views.

Political merch in America has evolved significantly over time, reflecting changes in culture, technology, and political engagement. From minimalist buttons and sashes to cheeky t-shirts and designer fashion, voters have embraced a wide range of apparel to express their political identities and beliefs. As we look ahead to future elections, one thing remains certain: we can’t wait to see what comes next.

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